Consuelo Castiglioni of Marni has long been renowned for the bohemian vibe of the label she founded in 1994. But, of late, she has been moving her “boho” aesthetic further and further forward. For next autumn/winter, she launched her muse into a contemporary world she called “twisted elegance.”

Her “future boho” adheres to a more austere line, in glazed and textured fabrics, in unexpected colour, almost architectural, combinations – dusky pink and matt olive; lettuce-green and beige; wine-red and sand

The silhouette, too, was more structured, with the emphasis on either a sculpted volume for dresses, which were gathered into loops under the bust, jackets, which swung out on the back, and fit-and-flip little skirts, which clung to the derriere and then flared out; or a cleaner, sharper line for tunic-tops and straight, long shorts, right to the knee – where they grazed the tops of sheer, black knee-highs, over-layered with olive ankle socks.

All-over geometric motifs, where circles collided with stripes, came in pink and orange, or red and orange, on a cream background, creating "modern art"-like swing-back jackets with cropped trousers, or a high-waisted dress, undulating around the knees.

The textural interest continued with embroideries, jacquards and large polka-dot intarsia. Fur was an essential piece of the Marni story – in red, Mongolian lamb for a rounded, V-necked top, worn with olive shorts; or in dusky-pink lamb, for a skirt, worn with a suede top, over olive, cropped trousers. Other furs were worked in intricate, black-and-white, geo-florals.

The accessories showed Castiglioni at her quirkiest: “bee-keeper” gloves, crocheted or in perforated leather, tied with ribbons and embellished with fur, perforated knee-high boots, in sage; peep-toe shoes with elasticated sides; calfskin and wood platforms; leather and perforated ponyskin handbags with chrome frames and resin handles.

And the finishing touch? The necklaces – a handmade cornucopia of metal cabochons, bone, chains fused with enameled metal and horn discs, real laurel leaves dipped in metal, and fabric-covered spheres encrusted with pyrite stone.Hilary Alexander